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tête du cochon - Longman & Eagle

Top Notch Beefburgers

-By Keith

(Photos Courtesy of Lthforum.com)

The Truth
As Food Babies slowly wakes up from its winter hibernation, the foodie scene in Chicago is at an all time fever pitch. Scalpers are asking $3,000 for tickets to dine at Next (about 15 times more expensive than a 4 hour, 22 course meal at 3 star Michelined Alinea) . And people are waiting in line for 2 hours before they find out the Doughnut Vault is sold out of $3 dollar pieces of fried dough. Even atop my soapbox I realize that as the writer of a food blog I'm not so different from some of these folks. Hell, I recently paid $75 to help a chef breakdown a 200 lb hog. But sometimes, well most of the time, its nice to go to a place where you can get great food and don't have to be surround by a packed restaurant full of people tweeting about what they just ate. Top Notch Beef Burgers is one of those places. 

The larger than life "Top Notch" Beef Burger sign that rises up like a beacon from the strip malls lining 95th St boldly proclaims the following, "Burgers, Fries, Shakes...The Best." Often, when a restaurant claims they serve the best anything, its probably not the case (see Elf for an example), however, in my humble opinion, Top Notch is speaking the truth. So what makes Top Notch the best? Let's break it down item by glorious item.

Burgers:

When discussing a food as ubiquitous as a cheeseburger, everyone has their own idea of what makes a certain version the "best." For me, its simplicity. Although I enjoy the burgers at places like Kuma's, often times there are so many extra ingredients (fried egg, jalapenos, avocado, pulled pork, pineapples, etc.) that you can barely taste the star of the show - the beef. While Top Notch appears to have given into this trend as well, now offering items like the "Italian" (mozzarella cheese, marinara sauce, green pepper, onion) and the "Mexican" (jalapeno cheese, salsa, guacamole, green pepper, raw or grilled onion), I highly recommend sticking with the classic quarter pound beef burger.

Burger Perfection
Top Notch does a few things that make their burgers stand out. First, they grind their own beef (Choice Top Round) daily. Second, they fry their freshly ground burgers in beef fat on an ancient looking griddle that has years of flavor built into the surface (think your cast iron skillet on steroids). While grilled burgers have that great smokey taste, I much prefer the incredible crust (see below for a food porn shot) that Top Notch achieves by searing their burgers on a hot griddle. Third, they get fresh buns delivered daily from a nearby bakery. Unlike the increasingly popular ginormous pretzel bun, the buns at Top Notch simultaneously provide a solid and appropriately sized foundation for the meat and a pillowy interior that melts as you bite through it.  Fourth, they use processed American Cheese. Normally this would be a bad thing. However, the combination of childhood nostalgia that it induces and the gooey, melted mess that only processed cheese can become when placed on a hot burger is well worth ingesting a few preservatives. So that's it, four simple steps to burger perfection. While I often order my burgers with cheese only, other acceptable additions include pickles and caramelized onions - anything else is just getting in the way of greatness.

The Goods
Fries:

Much like their burgers, simplicity is the key to Top Notch's incredibly delicious french fries. Here are the basic steps - peel and cut potatoes daily, deep fry in beef tallow to order, salt, serve. While a lot of places these days serve fresh cut fries, not many are deep frying them in beef fat. Is this healthy? Absolutely not. Does it make the exterior of the french fry crispy, the interior soft, and give them a slightly beefy flavor? Yes please. For those of you who miss the way french fries at McDonald's used to taste, Top Notch should certainly satisfy your craving. Not into french fries? The onion rings at Top Notch are freshly cut, breaded and fried in beef tallow as well.


Shakes:

Although I can't comment on how the shakes at Top Notch are made, I do know that they are appropriately rich, so thick they need to be eaten with a spoon, and the perfect compliment to the savory burgers and salty fries.


While I wish I could get out to Top Notch more often, a desire to live into my 30's and the traffic on the Dan Ryan are strong enough deterrents to limit my visits to an acceptable number. For those of you haven't visited Top Notch I highly suggest making the trip. Not only will you get to taste one of, if not the best classic burgers in Chicago for about $3, it's a great reminder that food doesn't need to be trendy or pretentious to be great.

The Beautiful Interior at Top Notch
Top Notch Beefburgers - 4.5 Food Babies
-Keith
  
Top Notch Beefburgers
2116 West 95th Street - (773) 445-7218
Open Mon-Thu 8am-8pm; Fri-Sat 8am-8:30pm


For more information check out the thread on LTHforum or Menupages.

Longman & Eagle: For The Love of Ampersands & Tasty Eats


-By Lindsay

Everyone has been telling me to go to Longman & Eagle. & so, because I’m easily influenced & have a perpetual case of FOMO (Fear Of Missing Out), I went. My lovely friend Angie & her boyfriend Chris (who I love despite the fact he’s from Oklahoma), joined me.

We ventured up to Logan Square, which apparently, in case you didn’t know, is the neighborhood preferred by real hipsters. “Wicker Park? It’s so [insert some obscure lyrics to a song by a band you’ve never heard of that only releases records on vinyl & references how silly & clueless everyone is],” says the skinny jean clad hipster with the ironic 1920’s mustache.

Per usual, I digress.

Luckily, Angie & my favorite game to play is Let’s Pretend To Fit In, so it all worked out regardless. Upon giving our names to the hostess with the mostess (Longman & Eagle doesn’t take reservations), we saddled up to the bar where I ordered a draft of Three Floyds Pride & Joy, Chris a draft Goose Island Matilda, & Angie a G&T complete with the most perfectly cubed iced cubes I’ve ever seen.Like the ones you etched incessantly on the front of your geometry binder in middle school.

We spent our impressively short wait (about 20 minutes on a weeknight at 7pm & the place was packed) perusing the 19 page drink menu. Intimidating? You bet. I was determined to get a whiskey flight; that narrowed our choices quite a bit, but I still felt somewhat helpless. Upon sitting down at our table, I asked our server (who, of course, was appropriately & hipsterly named Cortland) for help. Can I please tell you how much I heart knowledgeable servers? Love them; love, love, love. Cortland rocked. He helped us choose the white whiskey flight, which consisted of three locally distilled whiskeys – a rye, an oak, &a wheat. I liked the wheat the best as it was the whiskey-est of the three & had a good bite to it. The rye was reminiscent of moonshine. The oat smelled sweet but wasn’t really that smooth.


Whiskey in itself is fascinating, & I am determined to understandall of the differences one day… whiskey versus whisky versus bourbon versus scotch. Ahh! It’s all a-jumble in my head. However, on this outing, I did learn this Whiskey Fun Fact: white whiskey (as opposed to the more typical brown whiskey) is not aged in a barrel. Put that in your tumbler & drink it.

We started with an unexpected taste from the kitchen; always a nice little surprise, in my book. A spoonful of carrot & cumin soup with fava beans & olive oil. Simply delish, & warmed up my taste buds quite nicely.


Angie & Chris insisted I take the lead on ordering, which was a first for me. I felt the pressure, definitely. Usually when dining with fellow Food Babies Power Couple Jess & Keith, I sit back & let Keith do that whole song & dance; he never leads us astray, so I have no problem putting my palate in his care. Putting the fork in the other hand, so to speak, felt a little out of my element. So, I played another favorite game of mine: Fake It ‘Til You Make It. & you know what? I think I did okay.

We ordered three small plates to start. First up was Gulf prawns & grits topped with an over-easy egg, braised collards, & black pepper shrimp gravy. I’m always a little skeptical ordering seafood away from a shoreline (although a third coast, Lake Michigan does not count), but I was pleasantly surprised with the flavor. The prawns were whole, so if you’re a little queasy about ordering food that comes to the table with the eyes still intact (sometimes an issue for me, but not in this instance), I would recommend staying away from this dish. If you love grits, like this native-Texan does, I would recommend welcoming this dish with open arms.


Next was goat sausage (by Slagel Family Farms) with heirloom tomato & white peach relish, basil, eggplant baba, & black olive oil caramel. Good, but not awesome.  Upsetting because I really love goat… really, really love goat. But the eggplant baba gave it a good flavor though & was sort of reminiscent of foods I ate while living in Kenya, which made me happy.


Finally, out came the dish I had been anticipating consuming all day: tête du cochon with a sunnyside-up duck egg, pickled shallots, parsley salad, &a five spice mustard. “Tête du cochon” literally translates to “head of the pig.” No, they did not bring out a pig’s head on a platter or anything like that. All it is, is they take all the very yummy, very tender meat out of a pig’s head & then braise it to perfection. Put a runny egg on top of it? Ohh. Emm. Gee. Food porn at its finest, my food babies. Rating: XXX.

Wait for it...

Niiiiice
Personal Sidenote: the word “cochon” reminds me of watching my parents drink coffee out of this totally awesome retro mug when I was little.


Then, entrée time! Chris had been eying the sloppy joe at the table next to us, so he decided to give it a try. Wowie! This was not your run-of-the-mill meat-out-of-a-can sloppy joe. Ohh, no. First of all, it was huge (that’s what she said). Second, it was made from wild boar meat. Uhh, what?! Yum. Topped with crispy sage, onion, & pickled jalapeño, served on a pretzel roll, & complete with a side of beef fat fries. Best sloppy joe any of us had ever tasted, hands down.


 Chris finished the whole thing. Can you blame him?


Angie got the roasted half chicken with macaroni & morels, fava beans, baby carrots, & natural jus. It’s really hard to mess up roasted chicken. & Longman & Eagle did not disappoint.


I, of course, if you can’t tell already, am totally & utterly in love with everything & anything pig. & so, I ordered the confit of smoked pork shoulder with new crop potato-spring onion hash, apple, & a bacon-upland cress salad with cumin honey vinaigrette. A little greasy, but that’s just all the unavoidable pork fat goodness. Overall, delightful.


After all that savory, we needed a little bit of sweet. Hello, sexy dessert menu. Cortland recommended the donuts, but none of us were really feeling that. So we got the terrine of Madagascan chocolate, espresso cream, peanut custard, caramel glacage, baton of genois, honey foam, & clear coffee jelly. I don’t know what half of that stuff is (such class!), but it tasted damn good.



When all was said & done, we split the check three ways & only spent about $50 a piece. Not my usual Wednesday night dining out routine, but pretty good for a scrum-diddily-umptious meal.

Bonus points: I forgot my to go bag on the table; our server ran it out to us after we had already left the restaurant. Thanks, Cortland; you’re alright. You can bet your ass that pork shoulder tasted just as good heated up the next day. Fancy leftovers? Yes, please.

Longman & Eagle also has early morning tea, brunch, & hotel accommodations. I can’t comment on any of that whole business, but I would expect it’s just as wonderfully delectable & quintessentially hipstery.

Here’s to you, Longman & Eagle. I will be back again & again.

4 Food Babies






Longman & Eagle
2657 N KedzieAve – (773) 276-7110 (no reservations)
Open Sunday thru Friday, 9am-2am; Saturday, 9am-3am
Their menu changes fairly often, so be sure to check out their website: www.longmanandeagle.com