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tête du cochon - Longman & Eagle

J.P. Graziano Grocery Co.

 -By Keith

Although they share the same title as "grocery" stores, Jewel and J.P. Graziano don't have much else in common. There are no aisles, no racks of gossip magazines at the check out counter, and no familiar beeping of a bar code scanner ringing up your purchases. In fact, J.P. Graziano doesn't look like a normal grocery store because it was never designed to be one.
Entrance to J.P Graziano Grocery Co.
Opened in 1933 on Grand Ave. by Jim Graziano after immigrating from Sicily, the store originally operated solely as a wholesaler of hard to find Italian specialties for restaurants all over the city. A few years later, the store moved to its current location on Randolph and is now surrounded  by other wholesale food stores and restaurants. Currently operated by Jim's grandson, Jim Jr., J.P. Graziano is now open to the general public. Evidence of their new focus on individual customers is the recently remodeled interior that has retained the open, warehouse feel of the original layout, but is now more organized and functional.
J.P. Graziano's New Interior
As you can see from the above picture, much of the store's interior  is taken up by large barrels. Whats inside you ask? Large quantities of dried and fresh spices and herbs, as well as a variety of legumes including split peas, beans, chick peas, and lentils. I have sampled a few of the spices and beans available, including whole black peppercorns and lentils, both of which were incredibly flavorful and much cheaper than a typical grocery store. I am probably the last person to give vegetarians advice on where to shop, but J.P. Graziano definitely has an unusually large selection of options for you non-meat eaters out there.
Wall of Pasta

J.P. Grazziano also has a large selection of other Italian groceries, including a number of pastas, canned tomatoes, and olive oils, as well as other harder to find ingredients. No chemically engineered plastic pasta here, J.P. Graziano primarily stocks products imported directly from Italy at the fraction of the cost you might find them at a larger retailer like Whole Foods. In particular, the Salvati olive oil ($11 a Liter), LaSquisita Italian tomatoes ($2.50 for 35-oz can) and the Divella pasta ($2 a bag) are great values.
Jim Jr. with Cheese Knife/Sword
If that wasn't enough, possibly the best reason to make a trip to J.P Graziano is the cheese selection. The difference in quality between the cheese offered at J.P. Graziano and the stuff that has been sitting at the bottom of a refrigerator at Jewel is massive. Each order is literally cut by hand, using a cheese wire or massive knife/sword expertly welded by Jim Jr. (see above picture). Italian standbys, Parmigiano Reggiano (the real deal, from Parma), Pecorino Romano, and fresh mozzarella are typically available. Of course you can find these cheeses at other stores, but as a wholesaler J.P. Graziano is able to sell them at peak freshness for cheaper prices.

In addition to the classics, J.P. Graziano also offers a number of other specialty cheeses including Tallegio (a rich spreadable cheese - think the Italian brie) and Pecorino Tartufo (a sheep's milk cheese with shavings of black truffle mixed in). Having trouble making up your mind? Ask Jim Jr. for some advice and he will happily help you out, or even offer a sample. Although its hard to keep up with J.P. Graziano's current offerings (sometimes they sell out of an item quickly), a quick call ahead of time to check availability and price is all that's needed.
The "Mr. G." - Sandwich Nirvana
Ok, I lied. The best reason to visit J.P Graziano isn't the pasta, the spices, or even the cheese. Its the made to order Italian subs. As many of you are aware, Chicago is home to a number of well known establishments serving Italian subs, including Bari, Fontano's, and Conte di Savoia. However, the Italian subs at J.P. Graziano are the best I have ever eaten, hands down. What makes them so delicious? First, its the freshly baked bread from D'amato's, an old school bakery with a coal fired oven, located a few blocks away on Grand Ave. The bread has a nice crunch on the outside that gives way to a soft, pillowy inside. Second, the meats and cheese are cut fresh for every sandwich and are of the highest quality. Lastly, the subs are perfectly constructed. Anyone who has eaten a poorly made Italian sub has experienced the horror of watching half of your sandwich spill out of the bread. Not at Graziano's. These subs are made with care, a perfect balance of bread, to meat, to cheese, to the accompaniments.

While all of the subs are delicious, including the Caprese, Artichoke and Italian, the "Mr. G" (pictured above) is sandwich nirvana. Named after Jim Jr.'s father, Jim Sr., this work of art is comprised of "sharp imported provolone, hot sopresatta, Prosciutto di Parma, Volpi genoa salami, truffle mustard balsamic vinaigrette, hot oil, roman style artichokes, fresh basil, lettuce w/red wine vinegar and oregano." After a few attempts and subsequent deletions I have admitted to myself that I can't do this sandwich justice with a simple description. The only thing I can do is implore you to get in your car immediately and go try one yourself, it is absurdly delicious.
Jim Jr. and Jim Sr.
Is it more convenient to buy your pasta, olive oil, cheese, etc. at a store where you can also buy a plunger and some dog food? Sure, but J.P Graziano's focus isn't on convenience, it's on family tradition, quality products and unbelievable service. Jim Jr. is hands down one of the nicest people I have met anywhere. Seriously, sometimes I just want to call him just to chat but I'm worried he might be a little creeped out. Jim Jr. clearly loves his job and is more than happy to help you pick out the right ingredient and even give recipe suggestions. If you aren't ready to make J.P. Graziano part of your grocery shopping rotation, at the very least stop by on a Saturday afternoon for the best Italian subs in the city and check out the rest of the store, I guarantee it won't be your last visit.

- Keith

J.P. Graziano Grocery Co. (Cash and Credit)
901 West Randolph Street - (312) 666-4587
Open Monday - Friday: 7:30am - 3:30pm. Saturday: 8:00am - 2:00pm.
For more information check out the J.P. Graziano website and the thread on LTHForum.

4 comments:

  1. Oh my goodness, their subs are so good! Just don't go to a bouncy party right after eating one : )

    Stephanie

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  2. I had a Will special (hold the tomatoes) last week that was really good. I also really appreciate the fact that they carry Acquarello Carnaroli rice for risotto and they had some really good looking salami from Salumeria Biellese in the cooler. The old school vibe is also really cool. I'll have to go back for another sandwich soon.

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  3. Dan and I went on Saturday after reading your review. He had the Mr. G and I had the Italian. Awesome!! I will definitely be making a trip back for cheese, spices and groceries (the giant barrels of spices were my favorite part...).

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  4. Awesome! Glad you guys liked it. Im due for some olive oil and cheese so maybe I will see you there.

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