Lao Sze Chuan

-By Keith 

All Photos Courtesy of LthForum

While there is something to be said for American comfort foods (Fried Chicken, Pot Roast, Chicken Noodle Soup, etc.) in the middle of a Chicago winter, when it gets really cold I can't help but crave Chinese food. There is nothing better than a big group of friends sitting around a lazy susan topped with steaming bowls of rice, passing around a variety of Chinese delicacies. Although there are a number of great Chinese options around the city, perhaps my very favorite is Lao Sze Chuan. Located right in the middle of Chinatown, Lao Sze Chuan is about 5-10 minutes from the Loop and easily accessible by the red line.

Perhaps the most impressive thing about Lao Sze Chuan is the sheer size of the menu. There are over 600 items comprised of excellent renditions of more familiar choices like egg rolls, hot and sour soup, and mongolian beef as more unique, regional dishes. Lao Sze Chuan specializes in Szechuan style cooking, characterized by the aggressive flavors of dried chili, garlic, and ginger. The addicting flavor of the Szechuan dry chilies in particular lend a kick to a number of dishes that are hot enough to make you sweat, but mild enough to not mask the other ingredients. As Lao Sze Chuan offers both the familiar and more exotic, it is one my favorite places to take both picky eaters and friends who are looking to try some of the most unique cuisine in Chicago.

So, what are the highlights of Lao Sze Chuan's massive menu? Below are some of my favorite dishes:

Kimchi - The Szechuan version of chips and dip, this spicy pickled cabbage is provided on the house to every table. The thick cut cabbage provides a fresh crunch that contrasts with the sharp tang of vinegar used during the pickling process. However, what puts this simple dish over the top is the ever building heat from the generous sprinkling of Szechuan pepper flakes. Even though I usually need three glasses of water to finish all of the kimchi, I can't help it but clean the plate every time.

Tony's 3 Chili Chicken - Affectionately known as "Chicken Crack" on LTHForum, this Szechuan version of popcorn chicken is always a crowd favorite. The dish is piled high with juicy chunks of chicken thighs (not indistinguishable chicken-like parts) that have been lightly battered and flash-fried with ginger, garlic and 3 chilies (jalepeno, dried Szechuan pepper, and red pepper flakes). Although the dish looks hot enough blow your head off, unless you eat a whole dried pepper it isn't overly spicy. An amazing combination of textures and flavors, I can't imagine a visit to Lao Sze Chuan without an order of Tony's 3 Chili Chicken.

 

Crispy Shrimp in Mayonnaise Sauce - I know. This dish sounds and looks like crazy on a plate but I promise it works beautifully. The shrimp and mayo at Lao Sze Chuan is possibly my favorite over the top indulgent dish in the city. Plump, fresh-tasting shrimp are very lightly battered and fried, then topped with a surprisingly light mayonnaise-based sauce with hints of orange that gently coats the shrimp's crispy exterior. The Crispy Shrimp in Mayonnaise Sauce is something of a culinary time bomb, the dish is at its best when it first arrives at the table. The longer the shrimp sit in the sauce, the less crispy they become so make sure everyone digs in as quickly as possible.

Sliced Beef and Maw - Szechuan Style - A little bit more on the exotic side, one look at this dish and you wont be able to fool a less adventurous eater to get it a try. The star of this cold appetizer is the Maw, a fancy word for stomach lining. Texturally the Maw is unique but not unappealing. It is has a slight chew but is also surprisingly tender, kind of like Chinese beef jerky. Combined with the thinly sliced beef and a healthy dose of chili oil, Beef and Maw is the perfect to start to every meal at Lao Sze Chuan.

Ma Po Tofu - I tried this for the first time during my last visit to Lao Sze Chuan and tasted what I previously thought to be impossible, a delicious and satisfying tofu dish. Too thick to be called a soup, this dish is unlike anything I have ever tasted. Although it looks incredibly spicy, the heat is surprisingly mild and pairs perfectly with the subtle sweetness from the tofu and fermented black beans. For those of you who can't stand the idea of not eating meat, delicious ground pork can be added to this dish for and extra $2.

Szechuan Green Beans - Flash fried with garlic and ginger, this is what the tempura green beans at your local chain restaurant wished they tasted like. Along with Tony's 3 Chili Chicken, these are a must order every visit.

Maybe its the sweat inducing heat of the Szechuan pepper, or the way the glass windows looking out onto the Chinatown mall fog up from the steam pouring out of the Chinese hotpots , but to me, Lao Sze Chuan is the perfect cold weather restaurant. Pricing is slightly higher than your neighborhood Chinese spot but still reasonable with most entrees ranging from $9 - $15. At the very least Lao Sze Chuan is worth a visit to take a stroll around china town and to taste excellent renditions of classic "American" Chinese food (the Orange Beef Tenderloin is particularly delicious). But with a little exploration into their massive menu, you can find some of the most unique and comforting Chinese food in the city.

Lao Sze Chuan - 4.5 Food Babies

Keith

Lao Sze Chuan
2172 South Archer Avenue - (312) 326-5040
Open Daily - 11:00am - 12:00am
For more information check out the thread on LTHForum.